NW Nomad

Driving Tucuman to Tafi del Valle and Cafayate

Just returned from over two weeks solid on the road including the 1000 miles to Buenos Aires (and 1000 miles back) and culminating in waking up to the earthquake in Chile and feeling the 6.3 that hit Salta this afternoon. Began with a circuito of the Valles Calchaquies with three lovely Canadians who weathered everything, including a stint in Cafayate's hospital for one. Never underestimate the quantity of water required at this altitude and with the high desert sun. Before travelling, they had inquired whether to rent a car or be guided by me of for which routes. I recommend the Northern part - Purmamarca and Salinas and Tilcara for driving alone as the road is paved, mostly highway and very friendly compared to the steep curves and ripio in the south. I inquired at the end of the trip whether they would have done it alone, Salta to Cafayate, to Tucuman and to Cachi and Salta and they said no.

It was unfortunate that the hotel had experienced a tidal wave of mud when the river flooded down the mountain and was still suffering the damage from being waist deep in mud. Tourists had to wait two days at the hotel for their rental companies to send out a new car from Salta after the mud rolled the car over. Buenos Aires rained every day with 97% humidity. A month of rain fell in an hour and a half causing flooding and blackouts. People were riding down Santa Fe Avenue on surfboards. It was a relief to leave and take the open road.

Catamarca has a salt flat that's a little soggy but the road and sky are wide open. Take the autopista into Tucuman to avoid driving through the villa and having kids chuck rocks at the car. Tucuman is bigger and better equipped but doesn't have the visitor infrastructure that Salta does - it's almost impossible to find a decent value for money hotel - as it is in Cordoba.

Taking the road out of town and turning into Las Sosas is a dramatic and delightful change. This must be one of the loveliest drives.

There's a reason it's called cloud forest.

Sometimes the road falls into the river but at least lower down it's sunny.

Up higher, the cloud envelops the trees like fingers in tangled hair and the steep switchbacks on the precipice cause visitors to crawl along at 10km.

Once you emerge and observe what you have driven through, the view of the cloud below the horizon is magical and the people in Tafi del valle are super friendly.

Climbing again to 3000metres to the infernillo outside of Tafi, the road is still full of potholes. The view at the top is marred by plastic bottles and rubbish even though all the land is owned by one very prominent family.

People are not always happy driving along this narrow precipice cut into the side of the mountain.

But the view across the cactus park to the Nevado de Aconcagua is spectacular especially in the afternoon.

Only a few floods across the road but check the depth to be sure before driving through very slowly.

Quilmes Ruins - Pachamama Museum - Tafi Del Valle

This day trip running from Cafayate has become really popular as people realise what a great variety of sites they will get in one day.

People ask - Is Quilmes Ruins worth it and I say depending on whether you like ruins. It is the most important site in Argentina and really interesting even for the hike to the top and the view across the Calchaqui Valley. Then there is the popular Pachamama Museum which people are always surprised at. They expect a typical dark two roomed space and are treated to a stone mosaic garden and history of the area. The leaflet photo shows the gate. It has been tricky when the cafe is closed as people are usually flagging from the heat and keen for a cold glass of Torrontes. The restaurants in Amaicha are not great. Now I have discovered a boutique hotel on a hill who will serve us lunch at whatever time.

Then it's on to Tafi over the Infernillo at 3000 metres above sea level. The views from halfway up across the cactus park are marvellous - it's the Nevado de Aconquija. There is a space observatory that was built to view Hailey's Comet and can be visited on summer evenings.

Tafi is a verdant summer escape for rich Tucumanos and the start of the Northern hippy trail - lots of friendship bracelets for sale. We visit a two-hundred year old estancia where they still make goat cheese in the original manner started by Jesuit monks.

A traditional Criollo Afternoon tea including homemade cheeses and dulces sets everyone up for the ride back to Cafayate. (Option of course to stay in Tafi and continue on to Tucuman for bus or flight ot to go through Catamarca towards Mendoza)

Into Tucuman

From Cafayate it is a hoppity skip across the unmarked and unpoliced provincial border into Tucuman - where in summer you have to change your clock again as they elect to keep time with Capital.

There is a fairly drastic change in the landscape and even the light. It's a long drive to 3200 metres above sea level so a guided tour is best for the day. However, the local bus out of Cafayate chugs along to all the points of interest - just not in one day.

First stop on a day trip are the Inca ruins at Quilmes - open again after the dispute with the local tribe. This is a historically interesting large site of terraces, much less reconstructed than the Pukara at Tilcara.

Next stop is Amaicha del Valle where we visit the Museo de Pachamama - An impressive building created by an artist and a shrine to his work. There is an interesting guided tour in Spanish showing the formation of the geographical layout and the tribes who lived there.

Then we drive across the mountains and down into Tafi del Valle - the Garden of the Province. Green and verdant, Tafi is the summer refuge for rich folks from San Miguel de Tucuman - the capital, which regularly hits 40 degrees on the thermometer. Clients may elect to stay the night and next day take a trek from Tafi in 4x4s or on horseback.

I persuade all guests to continue on from Tafi to pass through the Natural Reserve 'La Sosa' - which must be emulating Heaven - its hills covered with cascades of trees and ferns. We either return to Cafayate after a stop in the verdant silence - or drop clients in S.M. de Tucuman to continue their journey back to Salta ciudad or otheoints in Argentina.