NW Nomad

English Speaking Tour Guide from Salta

Just back from a great week with four guys from the States. We started with Bodegas and ruins in the south along with photosafaris in search of colour and texture in the landscape.

 
The second leg of the trip took us from Cafayate back through the Quebrada de las Conchas to the North via the Cornisa, passing through the lakes area.

 
Yes that is the old highway - one lane that snakes through the cloud forest on an incredibly winding road. The two most tiring roads to drive in the North are 52 to the Salt flats and this, the old Highway 9 from Salta to Jujuy for the curves and the speeding oncoming trucks.

 
I don't really advise driving this road if you are renting a car. It's a small enough road that makes it perfect for blockades.

 
Michael and I walked to the front to chat with the demonstrators which their leader found highly amusing - invoking the labourers to 'Smile for the Foto but don't break the camera. Jajaja'.

 
We had four nights in the North - a good time to relax, enjoy the pueblo as well as drive out on excursions to far-flung places. The two nights in Purmamarca at the 'Star Wars' Hotel were truly memorable.

 
It's situated right on the hike around the coloured mountain and the colours in the morning before the day trip tour buses arrive are really spectacular. The white rock dates back 400 million years and has magical properties. I carried some out in my sack and it discharged my Blackberry.

 
From Purmamarca we drove up over the Cuesta De Lipan to 4000 Metres - another winding road - then back down with the glow of the salt flats in the distance.

Another Star Wars landscape, it is worth visiting for the diversity of the landscape, the light in the clouds and the altitude of the puna.

 

 
  - vicunas and guanacos are often visible at the side of the road but they are accustomed to the landscape and know it's not the healthiestplace for sunbathing.

 
This trip can be done in a day but it's much nicer to stay the night and continue on to Tilcara and Humahuaca the following day. Tours available at www.northwestnomad.com

Grape Harvest - Finca las Nubes, Cafayate, Salta

A beautiful Saturday at Bodega Mounier - Finca Las Nubes - in Cafayate. Everyone picked a few grapes but the real draw was the party - All said it was like a civilised Serenata. To me it seemed like a swanky wedding with everyone under a marquee shading from the fierce heat of the altitudinal sun, drinking great wine straight from the bodega and dancing folklorico along with the pros.

The Quebrada de las Conchas

 
The light in the Quebrada yesterday late afternoon was so surreal, I had to stop and get a few photos even though I only had my pocket camera (I am starting to wonder whehter there is really any difference in quality apart from lenses)

 
These were just snapped from the side of the road in between dancing to a bit of disco.I can't wait for the client coming this month who is an abstract photographic landscape artist - Surely he will find the best inspiration here.

Grape Harvest Fiestas

Just when you thought it was safe to stop partying after La Serenata in Cafayate and Carnavales everywhere - the vendimia or grape harvest, is upon us.

For anyone travelling the North West in the next couple of weeks - Finca Las Nubes has a huge party for their harvest with participation in picking, music, food and of course vino. This year it starts at 8am on Saturday March 13th and goes on, like everything in Argentina until laaaate.

Finca Las Nubes is the divinely located Mounier Bodega located high in the hills at the top of the Divisadero/25 de Mayo street in Cafayate.

Just before that for non-wine lovers is the Festival de la Chicha on the 12-14th (Chicha being the hooch made from almost everything that grows and falls off a tree). The Festival has held in La Caldera for the last twenty years and features some of the most famous folklorico bands in the country.

Earthquake Chile and Salta

So many clients have been enquiring about the Earthquake aftermath effects I can advise that Salta is fine for visitors. Both earthquakes were felt in Cafayate. I woke up to the wardrobe door squeaking back and forth like a horror film and something else banging around in another bedroom from the undulations caused by Chile. The Salta quake was epicentred in La Merced outside Salta on the route to Cafayate and was much stronger  for being so much closer. The floor and walls shaking, the furniture all wobbling and falling over. It was a 6.1 Richter scale, a seperate quake not an aftershock from Chile and although two people died in Salta and people felt headaches after, por suerte nothing worse has ensued.

The Cathedral in Salta was swarmed with people demanding the doors be opened, probably wanting solace from the same Saint that inspires a pilgimage of half a million people each year for her miracle in stopping the huge earthquakes in the 17th Century.

 
Recently there were festivals to Pachamama in various pueblos. Most celebrate in August with the burning of the herbs and offerings of pop and cigarettes, but some wait until February when the festival is combined with Carnaval.