Just returned from over two weeks solid on the road including the 1000 miles to Buenos Aires (and 1000 miles back) and culminating in waking up to the earthquake in Chile and feeling the 6.3 that hit Salta this afternoon. Began with a circuito of the Valles Calchaquies with three lovely Canadians who weathered everything, including a stint in Cafayate's hospital for one. Never underestimate the quantity of water required at this altitude and with the high desert sun. Before travelling, they had inquired whether to rent a car or be guided by me of for which routes. I recommend the Northern part - Purmamarca and Salinas and Tilcara for driving alone as the road is paved, mostly highway and very friendly compared to the steep curves and ripio in the south. I inquired at the end of the trip whether they would have done it alone, Salta to Cafayate, to Tucuman and to Cachi and Salta and they said no.
It was unfortunate that the hotel had experienced a tidal wave of mud when the river flooded down the mountain and was still suffering the damage from being waist deep in mud. Tourists had to wait two days at the hotel for their rental companies to send out a new car from Salta after the mud rolled the car over. Buenos Aires rained every day with 97% humidity. A month of rain fell in an hour and a half causing flooding and blackouts. People were riding down Santa Fe Avenue on surfboards. It was a relief to leave and take the open road.
Catamarca has a salt flat that's a little soggy but the road and sky are wide open. Take the autopista into Tucuman to avoid driving through the villa and having kids chuck rocks at the car. Tucuman is bigger and better equipped but doesn't have the visitor infrastructure that Salta does - it's almost impossible to find a decent value for money hotel - as it is in Cordoba.
Taking the road out of town and turning into Las Sosas is a dramatic and delightful change. This must be one of the loveliest drives.
There's a reason it's called cloud forest.
Sometimes the road falls into the river but at least lower down it's sunny.
Up higher, the cloud envelops the trees like fingers in tangled hair and the steep switchbacks on the precipice cause visitors to crawl along at 10km.
Once you emerge and observe what you have driven through, the view of the cloud below the horizon is magical and the people in Tafi del valle are super friendly.
Climbing again to 3000metres to the infernillo outside of Tafi, the road is still full of potholes. The view at the top is marred by plastic bottles and rubbish even though all the land is owned by one very prominent family.
People are not always happy driving along this narrow precipice cut into the side of the mountain.
But the view across the cactus park to the Nevado de Aconcagua is spectacular especially in the afternoon.
Only a few floods across the road but check the depth to be sure before driving through very slowly.
The north of Argentina is a good place to visit anytime of the year, not just in the winter. My favorite place is Tucuman. Its just as good as Salta but without the high prices and throngs of tourists.
Tucumán
Posted by: Rodrick | October 04, 2011 at 08:12 PM