NW Nomad

THE Local Guide to Salta - Available Now!

Finally...We have been working for ages on this guide ever since we stopped the monthly, then bi-monthly publication of NWNomad News (mostly due to constant printer problems and late delivery - business in Argentina is not what we've come to expect).

Publishing the ultimate guide to a location has to be spot on and we think the BACK.Yard Guide to Salta (and Jujuy) - the first of many BACK.Yard Guides to follow, is just that.

What you'll see when you download this BACK.Yard Guide is...

A local's advice on the best itinerary and how to make the most of your valuable time, What to bring, when to go, driving and renting a car. Each area, from Salta city, to Cafayate, to the pueblos in the north have a dedicated page featuring what to do, where to stay and eat and some history of the sights and sites. It's just like having a guide with you on the road although BY Guide is best read before leaving home as it offers a ton of invaluable and, more importantly up-to-date, information on the area you're investing your hopes in.

All about renting a car and managing driving in a foreign culture, BY Guide helps all the way.

There are special pages on handicrafts, local foods and even a recipe for the revered Salta Empanadas.

Even better, the 36-page guide makes a great souvenir, loaded with professional photos. Every page full colour.

The BY Guide to Salta is only $7.99 and can be purchased here or by clicking the "BUY NOW" button below (It will be delivered to you instantly via special link for download so you can carry it on your trip on Ipad or PDF Reader or print it out in full colour and bring it along). Please come back and let us know what you think. (You will need to download a Free PDF Reader APP to Iphone and I pad in order to get the full colour magazine on the device)-

Or see info and add to cart here

Coming soon - BY Guide to Buenos Aires and BY Cook Salta.

Cinco de Mayo - 5th May Fiesta with Spirit of South America Travel

So many travelers touring with me in South America, or more particularly those visitors from the US, ask me what we're going to do for 5 de Mayo that I have to pop up a quick note here to let everyone know that the Cinco de Mayo is a Mexican celebration - honoring their unexpected rout of the French invaders in a pueblo named Puebla.

Of the many festivals and holidays in South America, Cinco de Mayo is not one of them. It's not actually celebrated all that much in Mexico either - their Independence day in September is a much bigger fiesta but expat Mexicans living in the US do make it a party - any excuse, which is probably why our US tourers are expecting fireworks.

All we can offer in May is Dia de Las Trabajadores - Worker's Day and in Argentina the 25th May is a National Holiday celebrating the 1810 revolution, that which kicked off Independence, although not the actual independence which is July. There will be some uniformed parades and trumpet blowing in Humahuaca, Jujuy Province,  where the fight was centred.

7th May in Bolivia sees the Tinku Festival - an ancient fiesta honoring Mother Earth - Pachamama - which may seem a little aggressive for foreign tastes as it starts with music and ends up with punch-up fighting until blood is spilt. Not a brawl, the blood is believed to sanctify the earth and bring abundance.

And in Peru - where there are fiestas most days of the week it sometimes seems, the one that may be of most interest to visitors is Fiesta de Alasitas in Puno, on May 3rd. Artisans line the streets selling miniatures that depict our dreams for the future. The perfect place to purchase a teeny pot of gold or pocket Brad Pitt.

Salinas Grandes Weather on the salt flats Argentina with spiritofsouthamericatravel.com

One of the especially awesome things of the many things about going up to Salinas Grandes - the salt flats between Argentina and Chile situated at 3300 metres/ 10,827 feet above sea level, is the way the weather changes through the seasons. When it should be summer, it tends to rain - and that means rain like you have possibly never seen before even if you come from Seattle. And don't forget that summer is in January - March.

And when it's hot, it's boiling hot and with all that white reflection on the ground, liable to singe skin. I am constantly amazed by the people who live up here, wearing their full face hoods to keep out both wind and scorching sun. There's nothing whatsoever to do for entertainment aside from harvesting salt. The government still won't allow them to open the confiteria (that salt brick building, the only building for miles) because there aren't real bathrooms. This is probably not an area of the world that anyone expects sanitation although maybe in years to come, even this wild corner will be dominated.

They've adapted though as humans tend to do. The football pitch is up even in rainy season and I don't think there can be one with a better view - Anyone know of one please send me a photo.

I wonder if that rock in the photo is the ball. If you walk back behind the building, towards the mining area, there's an outdoor dining room completely constructed of salt bricks and an outdoor church with salt brick pews and pulpit. Just the essentials.

Chakana Raymi - Inca Andes Festival

There are many ancient festivals from Inca and Pre-Columbian eras dedicated to reverance for the Earth and the SUn, Moon, Stars, WInd, Rain and their other Gods and Goddesses of the natural world. Inti RAymi is perhaps the most well known to foreigners, the Festival of the Sun God, Inti, held at the winter solstice. The most regularly celebrated though is Pachamama, the Mother Earth symbol that gives life to all is honored throughout the year at celebrations for each of the changing seasons to keep her happy and abundant.

May 4 - 6 is Chakana Raymi, or the Festival of the Southern Cross, in the Andes - a key date in the Andean calendar, this festival will celebrate the heavens with a close observance on astronomical movement. During these early days of May the Andean Cross moves into a vertical position in the heavens and delivers its most powerful energy release. The Fiesta has been celebrated for more than 5000 years.

During the celebration, the Apu (shaman or master of ceremonies) will make an offering to Pachamama to connect the earthly world to the celestial world. The ceremony is held in a sacred site under the stars, believed to cleanse, heal and rejuvenate the soul, emotional and physical body.

The Spanish Crusaders considered Chakana Raymi a heathen festival and replaced the figures with a Christian Cross and made the same date into the celebration of the Cross in Christian terms.

These days are also most propitious for visiting the Shaman and receiving powerful benefits from indigenous herbal plant remedies. I found the tinctures I received from my own Shaman extremely effective in curing or alleviating my ailments and I may have mentioned this before, but I have seen him literally suck infection from the body of a visitor. Of course he also accurately reads the emotional state of the physical body and seems to know your inner feelings, probably the reason some people are too nervous to have a meeting with him.

The flag made up of many small squares of different colours is a representation of the Chakana - Southern Cross and is visible in slight variation in Pueblos all over the Andes. Not only a symbol, this format was used as a mathematical calculator and a way to keep track of the year as an early calendar.

The Tawa Chakana that is visible everywhere and worn as adornment is the Andean Inca Cross - used as a symbol of devotion and energy for many thousands of years. Wearing one fashioned from gemstone (mine is rhodochrosite, Argentina's national stone, you will see this pink rock fashioned into myriad ornaments) is believed to be a powerful protector.

The Chakana Raymi devotions are generally held in very sacred sites in the Andes, believed to hold even more powerful energies and connections to the stars so you may have to travel a bit to find one but it wil be a magical evening and worthwhile. There may also be noon time celebrations on the plaza so don't be surprised to see people pouring bottles of wine into the ground.

 

Salta to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile into Uyuni, Bolivia

We have been getting a lot of enquiries recently about travel from Salta across the altiplano to San Pedro to Atacama in the Atacama Desert in Chile. Not surprising as it's a great drive across the salt flats and SP is a hip little town that has a number of new boutique hotels worth whiling away the time between visits to Moon Valley and the hot springs.

Our clients generally continue their onward journey in private vehicle after touring NOA from Purmamarca in one long day across to SP however for clients who have toured with us we are also able to purchase tickets in advance for the Pullman and Gemini bus route - A 12 hour ride.

We also collect from SP for the reverse journey, finishing up in salta. And we now offer a four day trip from SP into Bolivia to travel across the Uyuni Salt flats and terminating in La Paz. Bolivia is one of the last undiscovered frontiers in the world, still not covered with human travellers and is set to become a hot destination in the next few years. Please mail for further info if interested in any of these trips and stay connected for the imminent rebranding of North West Nomad with new website and blog.

Dakar Rally 2013 in Salta, Argentina

The Dakar is coming through again today and causing a huge disruption to travel plans. Last year, Hilary and Jason's trip was completely reworked otherwise they would have been stuck at Colome (possibly the best place in NOA to be stranded) when the ministry decided last minute to adjust the route and close Ruta 40 and Ruta 68.

This year the race is generating a certain amount of aggravation locally for the rubbish left behind and pollution to the eco-system following the aggressive passage of hundreds of vehicles and tank-like supporter vehicles, not to mention many thousands of spectators lining the roads.

The blog 'No al Dakar" has been quite adamant in posting the destruction caused and invites signatures to its 'No al Dakar" petition. Here is a link to the English Digital Journal

For me there are certain discrepancies in the statements on the "No al Dakar" blog. For instance, last year the Ministry set the route so that the race was not staged through the PN Los Cardones but came through the artesans village, much to the outrage of the weavers who had to pack up their workshops because of the dust thrown up by the vehicles and who lost business. The blog states that last year there was garbage left and burnt out vehicles which was not the case. The photos in one post are not even of the Parque based on the vegetation lining the road.

Although it was a hassle for many concerned, the Dakar brought an influx of excitement and attention to NOA. Driving back from Jujuy, Jason and Hilary's trip ended with them being on the same highway as the Dakar Rally alberit heading int he opposite direction and their route was lined with thousands of waving spectators. As Jason said, A trip of a lifetime.

Happy Travels in Salta 2013

We want to wish a very happy and adventurous 2013 to all the wonderful travellers who came through Salta and NOA in 2012 and all those who will journey with us this year.

I have been able to guide visitors less than I would have liked but Joaquin, Gaston and Homero have received nothing but raves from everyone. I always worry and check in during the trip and after to make sure that everything is/was perfect and these three musketeers have been satisfying everyone especially with the extent of their knowledge about this fascinating area. Homero is expert at finding the biggest steak with fried egg and fries when he should be showing off empanadas.

Here is a quick mail I had three days ago from Jan and Bill:

"Gaston was wonderful! I will write more details and feedback when we return home in a week or so. Our trip was great."

I asked her to post either to the facebook page or here at the blog so others could have the benefit of their experience.

Up next....rainy season and the expansion of North West Nomad into Peru and Bolivia. Bolivia is one of the untouched areas left in the world but going soon.

Cactus en Cachi

People frequently say they are very keen to get up close with the 'cardones' cacti in the national park just outside Cachi. Now this is definitely an amazing area and you can see as they stretch back for miles like an army how the Inca legend arose of the cactus being a warrior who waited so lotally for invaders to arrive that he was turned into a cactus. However it's not the only area to see cactus - they are all over NOA and you are bound to run into some up close and personal along the way.

This shot of the Painter's Palette outside Tilcara would not have the same impact without the small figure shooting from the narrow ledge over the gorge. When shooting in the park, remember to put a defining object in the shot (probably your companion) in order to show the scale of these giants.

At the same time get in clsoe as this is the time of year that the flowers burst open - Another legend says the flowers are Inca lovers who were thwarted in their escape to romance and were turned into these beautiful blooms. And here is a shot from the estancia overlooking the Nevado de Cachi at 6300metres - better that it has depth dimension through the front layer of trees in th foreground.

Photo Tours - A Winner

"Orbit" - The photo I took of a cloud during sunset up on the puna at 4000metres between Salta and Mendoza at El Penon was exhibited at the Academy of Fine Arts in Virginia through September 2012.

The quality of the exhibition was amazing so I was thrilled to hear I had won a Juror's Award for the shot.

I have carried many visitors eager to shoot great landscapes - they recognize the opportunity to pick up some tips from a professional photographer and especially to be shown the ideal position for a shot at the right time of day - The light can be vicious at 3300metres.

We are expanding our photo tours as Joaquin is also an avid photographer and naturally has sourced some ideal locations in his ten years on the job. While there are great opportunities for photo sessions along the route, especially in the Quebradas and up on Salinas Grandes - truly avid landscape seekers will journey with us up onto the desolate puna for shots with a lunar quality and the sort of astounding light variation that creates stunning effects in Lightroom and Photoshop.

Email to inquire about private tours to some of the last undiscovered landscapes on earth.

Artesans In NW Argentina

There are many craftspeople I recommend as we travel the route around Salta and Jujuy. I recommend because I have seen everyone many times and I have sussed out who is the best - I do NOT collect commissions from these guys like all the other guides in Salta. My clients know I don't need to take them on the Arab carpet trip - if they want to buy crafts, they know they are seeing the best selection.

One of my personal faves is the work of Andreina Mena who paints the most adorable watercolours of the area. She loves the landscape as much as I do and paints the coloured hills, the adobe churches of Cachi and Molinos (Why not the most picturesque of all in Seclantas?) and the Cholas - the indigenous women with their long plaits and colourful bobble skirts.

Andreina sells at the Quilmes ruins and at a small store in Cachi called Kaptus or if you venture further south into catamarca, which very few visitors do, at her studio in Santa Maria.

I find myself buying a few pieces every time I see Andreina - either a Quebrada sunset framed in cactus wood (This is protected in the region but you can use it for small things like photo frames from plants that have fallen naturally) or just a postcard of the & Colour Hill in Purmamarca. They are all irresistible.

Ultimate 6 Day Wine Tour in Salta and Jujuy

We are constantly revising and optimizing our tours and here is my current fave taking in the best eateries along the way - It's a real foodies tour and the wine tastings are the best it goes without saying.

I only ever included Colome in the tour as the price of an overnight meant it was only suitable for discerning travellers but now that the estancia is closed for overnighters and open for day-trippers, it's a great option as a stopover at the highest vineyards in the world.

This 6 day tour is for our guests but also a guide for those who prefer to drive themselves (I recommend you accompany your trip with our BACK.Yard Guide to SALTA - GO Where the Local Tells You Available Here BY Guide to Salta - It covers the itinerary, what to bring, where to eat and a lot of hostory and photos - Just like having me in the car). One caveat for those driving themselves - Don't take ruta 40 in rainy season unless you have strong Spanish and can call the police every morning to check the advisory warnings.

DAY 1 - Pick up airport or hotel and drive to Cachi. Lunch at Estancia. Continue to Molinos via artesan's route and O/N

DAY 2 - Estancia de Colome at 2500metres above sea level. Wine tasting with sommelier Pedro Aquino, horse riding on the estate and visit to james Turrel light museum. O/N Molinos

DAY 3 - Drive through Arrow Gorge to Cafayate. Visit Bodegas.

DAY 4 - Visit Quilmes ruins. Drive through Shell Gorge to Salta City.

DAY 5 - Drive north to Purmamarca and visit 7 colour hill. Afternoon visit to Salt Flats.

DAY 6 - Visit Tilcara, Maimara, Uquia and Humahuaca. Return airport.

The tour can be shortened and the visit to the north left off. There are no vineyards in the north (I am discounting the new one in Maimara as the wine is still too rough) so for a real vineyard experience only Salta is recommended. However the north has a far more indigenous feel, you will really feel that you are in South America as you approach the Bolivian border.

It is recommeneded that hotel reservations are not made until the tour is fixed. We include reservations in our tours and it is not advisable to take day trips from Salta to the pueblos.

Email us at northwestnomad@gmail.com or trips@northwestnomad.com for a price - Sorry but with inflation and currency fluctuation, it is impossible to mention the price here.